Tuesday, 15 December 2009

Mancunian Lubrication

Our nearest lake, Thirlmere, is pretty interesting. It used to be two lakes and a small community. Then, in the mid 19th century, Manchester got thirsty. So it was decided to build a dam at the Northern end of the valley. Thus two lakes became one, the pub pulled its last pint and the community was dispersed. All that remains are a couple of farms, and the shiveringly perfect Wythburn Church ... more of which later. http://www.brackenrigg.com/activities/

Anyway. The area around the new lake was forested. Clumsily. To be frank, Thirlmere wasn't our favourite lake...and yet we bought nearby Brackenrigg. It did help that the location is perfect in every other way, but those serried ranks of industrial conifers never plucked the same strings as the ancient woodlands around Derwentwater, or the gorgeous shoreline of Buttermere, or the pathways along Eastern Ullswater.

Until now. Finally, sensitivity has prevailed. Thirlmere has been undressed of its gloomy plantations, and its natural beauty is for all to see. Especially if you get out early, as the sun ascends Helvellyn's Striding Edge and illuminates the still dawn waters.

Yes, we love it. A walk of maybe 40 minutes through the haunting Shoulthwaite Moss, a gentle bike ride of 10 minutes occasionally spotting shy deer, or jump in the car and you're there before it's de-misted. The dam itself is a fascinating construction, typically Victorian...as are the plaques of civic pride in the taming of the valley (and drowning of the history) in order to lubricate the Mancunian mills and their pitiful toilers (including my ancestors).

The backroad is one of the finest. The main A591 carries the traffic, this just carries cyclists, forestry workers and car-bound visitors. There's a walking path along the shore itself, and carparks a-plenty. And if your legs can handle a hill, Harrop Tarn is redolent of the rather busier Yosemite.

And it is well worth finding Wythburn Church. It is still there - just. There had been plans to close it - it isn't used more than a few times a year, its congregational catchment was lost to the reservoir, it has no power supply ... but it remains a wonderful building, full of spiritual resonance. So the community rallied round, raising the funds and contributed the man(and woman)power to repair and refurbish it. http://www.english-lakes.com/wythburn.html

I took this pic from the dam on my little phone camera, so technically it compares badly with the stuff preceding this which my good mate Andy Cannon shot, and it is almost embarrassing when compared to the stunning photography of Karen Sutton who, although living on the Isle of Wight, describes Brackenrigg as her second home (watch out for more of Karen's pics in the New Year, she's coming again in January) http://brackenrigg.com/cottages/

Ahem. Apologies for the ramble. Without further ado....this is Thirlmere at about 9am on a December morning.....

No comments: